Pho Skyline, Philadelphia, PA

Pho Skyline has quickly become my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Philadelphia. It is a small casual family and friends run business that can seat around 30 people and does a robust take-out business. Pho Skyline traces its origins to a friendship that began at the Viet Huong restaurant, in the Wing Phat Plaza on 11th and Washington.  Vincent Tran and Kiet Trinh, and Trinh’s mother Nhan who most recently cooked at Hello Vietnam in Northern Liberties, initially launched an online catering company, Bet Viet Phila, and then opened Pho Skyline in February 2024.

The menu offers a selection of vegan dishes, including exceptional tofu summer rolls.  Some of my favorite dishes are the Banh Mi Op La (this is a deconstructed Banh Mi with three sunny-side eggs, steamed pork roll slices, house mayo and pate served with an amazing crispy baguette) and the Mi Kho Tom Thit (a dry noodle dish with broth on the side for sipping, with pork slices, ground pork and shrimp over eggs noodles, with a house dressing sauce, bean sprouts, scallions, crunchy pork rind, and crispy chives).

The Dumplings:  Pho Skyline serves Hoành Thánh Chiên, aka fried pork and shrimp wontons.  They make these small dumplings fresh in-house and they are juicy, savory and have big chunks of shrimp mixed in with the pork.  I did not particularly care for the thick, sweet orange dipping sauce – I think it was a variation on duck sauce. But there are bottles of slightly thick, deeply flavored soy sauce on each table, and this soy sauce goes perfectly with these dumplings.  After my first bite into each dumpling, I drizzled some of this soy sauce into the dumpling.  This combination of fried dumplings and soy sauce was very good.

Pho Skyline also sells the Vietnamese pyramid shaped rice flower dumpling.  This style of dumpling has ground pork, usually with wood ear mushroom and a quail egg, embedded in a pyramid of gelatinous rice flower. The rice flower pyramid is wrapped in banana leaves, which impart a tea-like flavor to the rice flour when the dumpling is steamed cooked.  I have tried this style of dumpling a couple of times and unfortunately I am not a fan. 

The Location:  Pho Skyline is in Philadelphia’s Italian Market on Christian street, just west of 9th street.

Posted in Gyoza, Noodles, Philadelphia, Pork, Shrimp, Wontons | Leave a comment

SouthGate Philadelphia, PA

After being underwhelmed by dancerobot we decided to finish a Saturday night out at the Korean-American gastropub SouthGate.  As a fusion restaurant the menu has several American dishes remixed with Korean flavors – French fries with a kimchi vinaigrette, French fries with a puree of garlic and scallion and gochugaro aioli (SouthGate fries), a Seoul Nashville style hot-chicken, and Korean tacos.  The SouthGate fries were a disappointment, tossing the fries in pureed garlic and scallion and an aioli just made the fries limp and soggy. But the menu also has some Korean classics, like mandoo, sotteok, ssam, dolsot bibimbap and a range of soju.  The restaurant has a long bar, tables along the wall opposite the bar and some outdoor seating.

The Dumplings and Buns:  Southgate has pork mandoo and vegetable mandoo which can be served either steamed or fried.   I suspect that these dumplings were the frozen mass-produced variety, but even if I am correct here, I enjoyed the fried order of pork dumplings I got at SouthGate more than I enjoyed the house made dumplings at dancerobot.  Southgate also serves stuffed bao pockets with a choice of bulgogi beef, spicey pork, shitake mushrooms or tofu filling.  The bao also come adorned with pickles and sesame aioli.  The tofu bao was really good – the tofu was lightly fried on the outside and soft on the inside and I really enjoyed the sesame aioli and the acidity of the pickles.  I would go back to SouthGate for more tofu bao.

The Location:  SouthGate is on the corner of 18th and Lombard streets in Philadelphia’s Graduate Hospital neighborhood.         

Posted in Bao, Buns, Korean, Mandoo, Philadelphia, Pork, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

dancerobot, Philadelphia, PA

I did not completely get dancerobot’s concept, their web site describes it as “’80s-inflected Japanese izakaya” and the press articles running up to its opening describe it with variations of “Neon-lit ’80s Japanese izakaya”.  Other than the entranceway being papered in old anime and movie posters and the website looking like a Macintosh computer screen, if Mac screen’s had neon colors back in the 80’s, it is unclear how this restaurant relates to the ‘80’s.  Certainly, the dimly lit Victorian style bar/restaurant space has no neon lights.  dancerobot serves yōshoku style Japanese food, which is a style of Western-influenced cooking which began back in the mid-1800’s (not 1980s). The dishes are European dishes re-interpreted for the Japanese consumer, usually featuring Western-ish names.

The Cheesy Mentaiko Ommelette, which is an egg folded around Cooper sharp cheese with Mentaiko mayo on top of the egg, was good, but the cheese had such a strong flavor the Mentaiko was overwhelmed.  The Saba Shiovaki, grilled Norwegian Mackerel, was an excellent expertly grilled piece of Mackerel. 

Currently reservations are unavailable, so we got there at the 4pm opening hoping to grab some bar seats.  When we rolled up at 3:50, there was already a line of like-minded people, and we were lucky to get the last two seats at the bar.  A lot of dancerobot’s hype is due to it being the new restaurant from the team at Royal Izakaya and Sushi, but the stated concept seems to have gotten lost in the execution and food is good, but not yet living up to the hype.  We had a few dishes and then went to South Gate to finish our night of eating.

The Dumplings:  The Ebi Chili Gyoza are pan-fried flat dumplings filled with chunks of sweet fresh shrimp, served in a puddle of vinegar flavored soy sauce.  Separately the dumplings and the sauce probably would have tasted excellent, but when served together the dumplings got sodden in sauce, which becomes overpowering, and the gyoza wrappers lost their crunch.  This dish would have been much better if the sauce were served on the side for dipping.

Sorry the photos are pretty bad, dancerobot is dimly lit so it is hard to take photos

The Age Takoyaki was the best dish we ate at dancerobot.  These octopus balls are prepared with a sauce of brown butter and fish sauce and are adorned with caramelized fried shallots and bonito flakes.  The funk from the fish sauce and the crunch from the fried shallots were the perfect complement to the creaminess of the interior of the fried balls.  Each of the Takoyaki contained a generous portion of slightly chewy octopus. This was a great dish.

The Location:  dancerobot is on the 1700 block of Sansom street, in Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse neighborhood.

Posted in Gyoza, Japanese, Pan Fried, Philadelphia, Shrimp, Takoyaki | Leave a comment

Hsu’s Gourmet, Atlanta GA

While at a recent conference in downtown Atlanta I was lucky to find Hsu’s Gourmet, a gloriously old school American Chinese restaurant.  Depending on which part of their web site you believe, Hsu’s opened in 1989 or 1983.  Hsu’s on the street level of a parking garage building and, because it only has windows on one side which have closed shades on them, it feels like you are eating in a dimly lit underground bunker. As you enter the restaurant take a minute to check out the wall of photos of celebrities posing with the owner – Betty White ate at Hsu’s, as did Spike Lee.   Hsu’s serves the classics of American style Szechuan and Cantonese dishes and they have a great hot and sour soup which comes with fried wonton chips on the side.  This area of Atalanta is not great for food – a taco place with lots of fried food, a Hooters, a Hard Rock Café, a faux Irish pub… – but Hsu’s is really worth checking out.

The Dumplings:  I was there for lunch and the lunch menu includes Shantung Dumplings, fried chicken dumplings, vegetable steamed dumplings and wonton soup.   The Shantung Dumplings are your basic pork and veg dumplings with the option of having them steamed or grilled.  The grilled version is the classic gyoza style dumpling that are pan-fried on the bottom surface, and were juicy and quite tasty.  The menu describes the dipping sauce as a “Ginger Soy Vinaigrette Dipping Sauce”, which is just the traditional soy sauce and rice vinegar mix with a little crushed ginger. 

I also got the wonton soup which came with two shrimp and pork wontons in a clear light, but tasty, broth.  Both wontons were missing part of the wrapper (you can see this in the photo) and I suspect they had been pre-made and sat in a refrigerator, such that the skins had stuck together and then tore a little during cooking.  But the wontons tasted fresh, with the shrimp providing a slight sweet counterpoint to the savory pork.  The soup came with fried wonton skin chips to add to the soup, which I liked a lot.  When I first moved to NYC, wonton soup always came with fried wontons chips, but it seems like this is becoming less common these days.

The Location:  Hsu’s is on the corner of Peachtree Center Ave and Andrew Young International Blvd, with its entrance on Peachtree Center Ave.  The building is otherwise a parking garage.

Posted in Chinese, Dipping Sauce, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Shrimp, Wontons | Leave a comment

OMNI Plant-Based Potstickers, Frozen Dumpling Review

It has become impossible to find OMNI’s excellent plant-based ground pork and pork shreds in stores over the past few months.  I made some really good vegan dumplings with the ground pork [see here and here] and the shreds were good for making vegan tacos.  Now it seems that the only OMNI products being stocked are the Teriyaki Bao, which were very good, and the Potstickers.  There are lots of comments on Reddit lamenting the missing ground pork and shreds products.

Unfortunately, the potstickers are nowhere near as good as the bao – they were utterly flavorless, just a flavor void.  This is surprising since the ingredients include soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger and yeast extract (a way food companies add MSG to food without having to include it on the ingredient list).  At best these dumplings served as a dipping sauce delivery vehicle.  I really hope that they bring back the ground pork product, I want to make my own vegan OMNI pork dumplings again.

Plate and bowl by Dumpling Hunter

Posted in Dipping Sauce, Frozen Dumpling Review, Gyoza, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Vegan, Vegan Recipe | Leave a comment

MoonNight, Philadelphia, PA

Philadelphia’s MoonNight serves Vietnamese and Japanese dishes, including Pho, Ramen, Chả Giò, Gyoza, Buns, Bánh Mì, Yakitori, Crispy Garlic Wings, and Fried Wontons. MoonNight serves several vegan options, including vegetarian spring rolls, spicy cucumber, vegie dumplings, a ramen, a Pho, and a Seitan Banh Mi. They also sell lots of fruit tea, some green teas, milk teas, smoothies, and Vietnamese coffees. It is a small brightly lit restaurant with 5 or 6 tables. This review reports on my first trip there, when I just needed a snack, and I will be going back to fully explore the menu.

The Dumplings: MoonNight sells pork gyoza, veggie gyoza, deep fried pork and shrimp wontons with sweet chili sauce, steamed veggie dumplings, pork buns, fried curry chicken dumplings and, because this is Philly, cheesesteak buns (cheesesteak, pickled cucumber and lettuce). I tried the pork buns which come two to an order and are steamed fluffy white buns, stuffed with braised pork belly, pickled cucumber, lettuce and a sesame spicy mayo dressing. These buns were delicious, the braised pork was tender and tasty and I really enjoyed the mayo dressing, which had a decent kick. There was enough sauce on these buns that eating them is a little messy.

The Location: MoonNight is on E. Passyunk Ave, just south of Mifflin street. The E. Passyunk Ave corridor is one the major nightlife districts in Philadelphia and has tons of restaurants, cafes and bars. MoonNight is very close to a triangular pocket park, which is home to the statue of the legendary Philly boxer Joey Giardello. This park has a few tables and is a great place to eat some to-go food from MoonNight.

Posted in Bao, Buns, Japanese, Philadelphia, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

Because I Don’t Only Eat Dumplings: A Review of Lay’s Chinese Potato Chips

I spend a lot of time in Asian grocery stores picking out frozen dumplings to try. I am also fascinated by the packaged snack aisle, especially the huge variety of Lay’s Potato Chips from all over Asia. Why do we have so few flavor options marketed to us in the U.S.? I recently grabbed four bags from Lay’s Chinese flavors product line.

Roasted Garlic Oyster Flavor

These are my favorite of the four bags I sampled for this post and the best of all of the flavors I have tried over the past year. These chips have a legit, solid garlic flavor and totally remind me of roasted oysters.

The ingredients are pretty cryptic, the third flavor is “food flavor”. The ingredient list includes Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, aspartame (sweetener) and TBHC (oil stabilizer which prolongs shelf life). Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide works synergistically with MSG to produce umami flavor.

Smoked Rib Flavor.

The ingredient list includes only a few ingredients I associate with BBQ ribs. “BBQ seasoning” is listed, but appears to mainly be comprised of salt, sugar and yeast extract, the last of which is a way to get MSG into food. Far down the ingredient list there is ginger, star anise and ginger, which I associate with Asian BBQ flavor. Soy sauce is listed three times among the ingredients. MSG is high up the ingredient list and in combination with the yeast extract, you know that there is a good dose of MSG in these chips (not that is a bad thing).

The chips have a vaguely porky-savory flavor but no discernible smoke flavor or BBQ flavor. If you are looking for a nondescript savory flavor these chips will work.

Zibo Barbecue Style

I did not understand the concept of this variety of chips. Zibo Barbeque Style have a nondescript savory flavor without any particular flavor profile or direction. The ingredients list “Zibo Barbecue Seasoning (citric acid, Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, aspartame)”, which provides no clue as to what this chips are supposed to taste like.

I think part of the confusion is that, as best I can tell, Zibo BBQ describes a style of eating not a signature flavor. Zibo is a city in China that became a viral foodie destination in 2022/2023 for its outdoor BBQ restaurants. In the Zibo style of BBQ, you grill meat skewers on tabletop charcoal stoves and then wrap them in a thin crepe or pancake with a raw green onion stalk and a smear of hot sauce. Other than mentions of cumin commonly being an ingredient, I have not been able to find a description of a unifying flavor for Zibo BBQ, it appears that lots of different sauces and marinades are used.

It seems like these potato chips are not really about a specific flavor profile but invoke a style of dining. The packaging depicts what appear to be chunks of grilled meat, on a crepe with a scallion stalk.

Hot and Sour Lemon Braised Chicken Feet Flavor

I can find recipes and YouTube videos for Lemon Braised Chicken Feet (柠檬凤爪), so I think this is a legit Chinese dish. Of Lays Chinese flavors, this one is one of the best and these chips deliver the exact flavor promised on the bag – they are hot, sour and lemony. I am not sure if there is any contribution of chicken feet flavor, but from what I have read chicken feet do not have much flavor, which is part of why they are often cooked by braising them with strong aromatics and spices.

These chips also have a cryptic ingredient list – the third ingredient is “Flavor”. Followed on the list by our friend Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, and then DL-malic acid (a sour flavor), capsaicin, aspartame and TBHC.

Posted in Chinese, Pork, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Hong’s Dumplings – Frozen Dumpling Review

In the overwhelming, colorfully kaleidoscopic frozen dumpling aisle at H-Mart, Hong’s Dumplings caught my eye for its austere black and white packaging. It reminded me of the generic black and white labelled “Food” and “Beer” eaten in the classic film Repo Man. Hong’s Dumplings are made by Hong Jin-kyung Co., Ltd, founded by the South Korean model, variety show host, comedian and actress, Hong Jin-kyung.  Her food business began in 2004 focused on kimchi and achieved the No. 1 spot in online kimchi sales.  The company soon expanded into dumplings, japchae, galbi, gomtang, doenjang, gochujang, and various sauces.

I picked up a bag of mushroom dumpling and a bag of kimchi dumplings, which were both excellent and are both are vegan.  The kimchi dumplings are filled with kimchi, glass noodles, tofu, dried radish, green onion, onion, and leek. The dumplings have strong kimchi punch and are quite spicy, but a little oily. The front of the packaging for the mushroom dumplings features shiitake and black fungus, so I was surprised that these dumplings did not have a strong mushroom flavor and tasted more like a traditional veg dumpling.  When I looked more closely, I saw the package says, with a surprising precision, shiitake 4.18% and black fungus 3.69%.  The filling also includes carrot, green onion, tofu, dried radish, onion, cabbage and leeks.  So with these dumplings you won’t get much mushroom flavor but they are a very tasty veg dumpling.  Both of these dumplings are going to become a staple in my freezer.

Posted in Frozen Dumpling Review, Kimchi, Korean, Pan Fried, Potsticker, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

Chengdu Center City, Philadelphia, PA

Su Xing House, Philadelphia’s long running vegetarian Chinese restaurant has closed and been replaced by Chengdu Center City, an outpost of University City’s Chengdu Famous Food.  Chengdu serves Sichuan style Chinese food but thankfully has kept a lot of Su Xing’s vegetarian dishes; the General Tso’s Seitan is excellent.  Su Xing House will be missed a great deal, but I have been enjoying Chengdu a lot and Philly still has Unit Su Vege serving excellent vegetarian Chinese food.

The Dumplings:  Chengdu has a good selection of dumplings and buns, several of which, including the steamed and pan-fried dumplings, are vegan.  The steamed dumplings, which are filled with cabbage, carrot, chive, radish, green onion, ginger, garlic, and soy, were good, but not as good as remember Su Xing’s being.  The Pork Wonton’s with Chili oil were very good, and I am definitely going to get these again. Part of what I liked about their wontons is that they had lots of excess noodle for the sauce to cling to.  The chili sauce had lip and tongue tingling Sichuan pepper corns as an ingredient, which is unusual in this dish.

The star of the meal though was the, construct it yourself, Five Spice Pork buns.  This dish arrives as a platter of sliced braised pork belly, a bowl of Hoisin sauce, slivered scallions and cucumber, and three white fluffy steamed Lotus leaf style buns. These buns are sort of clam shell shaped and have a horizontal fold that can be opened up so the buns can be stuffed with your choice of filling.  This dish lets you build a bun with your personal mix of savory and sweet flavors and mix of pork meat and pork fat.  My only complaint with this dish is that it only comes with three buns, while there is enough pork belly and greens to fill five or six buns.

The location: Chendgu Center City is on Sansom Street near the corner of 15th street.  This block, between 15th and 16th street, is a row of excellent bars and restaurants.  As an appetizer before going to Chengdu, I got a couple of happy-hour oysters at the Sansom Street Oyster House, which I highly recommend.            

Posted in Bao, Buns, Gyoza, Pan Fried, Philadelphia, Pork, Potsticker, Sichuan Dumplings, Wontons | Leave a comment

Din Tai Fung, Santa Monica, CA

Continuing my tour of U.S. Din Tai Fung locations, on a recent trip to LA I checked out the Santa Monica location.  I have long argued that Din Tai Fung’s Xiao Long Bao are over-rated and Santa Monica reinforced my point of view.  On the plus side the dumplings are consistent across locations and visits and they are rarely over cooked, but I have had more flavorful soup dumplings at plenty of other dumpling spots.  For this outing we got two steamers of pork soup dumplings and a steamer of pork and truffle soup dumplings, which were amazing at the downtown Seattle location.  All three steamers of dumplings suffered from the same issue, the top of the dumplings, where the folds were pinched together, were dry and crunchy.  Our hypothesis was that the dumplings had not been made to order and had been sitting out for a while. As a result, the tops dried out and the steam cooking was not able to refresh this denser part of the dough wrapper. 

The Vegan Spicy Wontons (filled with bean curd, baby bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, glass noodles, and jicama) and the Shrimp & Kurobuta Pork Pot Stickers were both really good and far more enjoyable than the soup dumplings.  The pot stickers were prepared with a golden crispy skirt of fried batter, which I always enjoy. The steamed vegan dumplings had the same filling as the vegan spicy wontons, and were good, but I preferred the wontons. Din Tai Fung has also upped it vegan game in recent years, the Spinach with garlic and String beans with garlic were both great.

Posted in Chinese, Gyoza, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Shanghai, Steamed, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings, Xiao Long Bao | Leave a comment