3 Times, New York, NY

The origin story of 3 Times, a local NYC mini-chain of dumpling joints, is that an expat from Nanjing who was working as a tour guide in New York wanted a good Chinese restaurant to take his groups to. He had noticed the popularity of Din Tai Fung in other U.S. cities and wanted to adopt their ethos for quality for his own Shanghai-ese restaurant.  The origin story was not complete until he convinced a retired chef with 40 years of experience in Chinese restaurants in Shanghai and New York City to join him in the venture. 3 Times now seems to have about half-a-dozen locations in NYC. The one I tried on Amsterdam Ave was tiny, with counter service and maybe four tables, and was doing a steady stream of take-out business.

The Dumplings:  3 Times sells Pork Xiao Long Bao, Pork and Crab Xiao Long Bao and Chicken Xiao Long Bao and a variety of other dumplings including two of my favorites, the Shanghai style sticky rice with pork shumai and the pan-fried pork buns (Sheng Jian Bao).  The filling for Shanghai style sticky rice with pork shumai reminds me of Southern style dirty rice, mixed with pork and flecks of Chinese Sausage. These shumai are usually a flavorful bite, full of umami and sweet and sour notes from the sausage.  Unfortunately, the shumai at 3 Times had no flavor, I mean none, to the point where I thought I might have contracted COVID and lost my sense of taste.  I slurped down some of the soy dipping sauce just to convince myself my taste buds were intact and not virus ridden. Thankfully the pan-fired pork buns were much better, with great pork flavor, sweetness from the top of the bun and burnt caramelization from the crispy bottoms of the bun.  Unlike the pan-fried buns served at a lot of places, in proper Shanghai style the ones at 3 Times each contained a spoon full of soup. 

The Location:  3 Times’ Upper West Side location, on the west side of Amsterdam Ave between 107th and 108th street, is tiny and easy to miss.  It is near other Dumpling Hunter favs,  Happy Hot Hunan, Grain House and Naruto Ramen.          

Posted in Bao, Buns, Chinese, New York City, Shanghai, Sheng Jian Bao, Shumai | Leave a comment

Ba Le Bakery, Philadelphia, PA

There seem to be several Ba Le Bakery stores around the U.S. – California, Dorchester, Falls Church, Chicago and the one I hit in Philadelphia.  It is unclear whether they are related to one another.  The website for the Ba Le in Chicago suggests that there are many imitators of what they claim to be the original Ba Le Bakery. 

Philadelphia’s Ba Le Bakery sells a huge variety of prepared foods and a wide range of to-order Banh Mi sandwiches out of a jam packed, narrow space in a Vietnamese shopping plaza.  They have a variety of summer rolls, multiple types of sausage, ham products, pates, shrimp paste loafs, Vietnamese Beignets (which are vegan), bottled sauces, rice noodle rolls, pickles, deserts and bread rolls for sale.  They bake their Banh Mi rolls in house and their rolls some of the best in the neighborhood, which has close to a dozen places where you can buy Banh Mi.  They also carry vegan bologna and vegan pate so you could buy ingredients to make a vegan Banh Mi. They have no seating so everything is to-go.

The Dumplings: The Ba Le Bakery web site lists eleven kinds of dumplings, including several desert dumplings and Banh Gio, which are pyramid shaped rice flour dumplings stuffed with pork and wrapped in green banana leaves.  For this review I tried their steamed pork buns.  As usual for Vietnamese steamed buns these were fist sized buns made of fluffy, slightly sweet, bread stuffed with seasoned pork, a quail egg and Chinese sausage, with the unusual addition of peas and carrots.  The bun was really tasty, with the usual sweet and savory counter points from the bun bread and the pork, but I did not really notice the carrots and peas adding much to the flavor.  There wasn’t much Chinese sausage in the bun and I think it needed more to bring the slightly sour and spicy notes that make Vietnamese steamed buns flavor symphonies. A really good steamed bun, but not as good as those sold at BB Tee House.

The Location:  Philadelphia has a Little Saigon neighborhood that is centered on Washington Ave and runs from 6th street to 12th street and is anchored with shopping plaza’s on either end of the strip.  There is also a handful of restaurants and cafes that run north on 8th street from Washington Ave.  Ba Le Bakery is in the New World Plaza on 6th street and Washington Ave., which has several other foodie destinations including: an old school Dim Sum palace, a Paris Baguette and a Chinese supermarket.   

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BB Tee House, Philadelphia PA

BB Tee House is a new Vietnamese café in South Philly specializing in bubble tea and Banh Mi sandwiches. They also sell Vietnamese coffee, prepared foods, frozen foods and Vietnamese pantry staples.  They have excellent Banh Mi sandwiches and Bao and really good summer rolls.  On any given day they have 4-5 varieties of summer roll, my current top pick contains Chinese sausage and omelet.    

The Dumplings:  BB Tee sells baked BBQ pork buns (Char Siu Bao) and steamed pork buns (Banh Bao).  The Char Siu Bao are flat slightly sweet, fluffy buns, about 4 inches across, and are packed with juicy sweet BBQ pork.  The buns are good, but between the sweetness of the BBQ sauce and of the bun, they are a little one note.  On the other hand the steamed pork buns are sensational, probably the best I have eaten (sorry Tran’s World Food Market). These fist size buns are filled with seasoned ground pork, a whole Quail egg and Chinese sausage, all contained in slightly sweet fluffy bun.  The sausage is hard and slightly chewy and is salty and sweet with some soy notes, while the ground pork has a mild, savory taste and then there is a whole boiled egg.  These buns are large and one bun is sufficient for a solid lunch.         

The Location:  BB Tee is located in Wing Phat Plaza on Washington Avenue between 11th and 12th street in South Philly.  Wing Phat Plaza is a shopping plaza anchored by a large Vietnamese supermarket, that has several Vietnamese restaurants (one of the highest rated Pho restaurants in Philly), a Dim Sum restaurant and an excellent Indonesian restaurant.     

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Stick to My Pot Potstickers

Stick to My Pot, Potstickers is a small dumpling restaurant on West 35th street near Penn Station.  The restaurant has a long wooden counter, with metal stools, along one side of the space, and counter service at the back, where you order and pick up your dumplings.  They serve five kinds of dumplings, braised pork bao, and a selection of small plates, including noodles with scallion sauce, scallion pancakes, spring rolls and pickled Napa cabbage.

The Dumplings:  The dumpling orders are available in three sizes, small at four pieces, medium at six pieces and large-at eight pieces and they can be ordered fried or steamed.  The choices are: the Classic –pork napa cabbage and chives; Shrimp – shrimp, water chestnut, and shepherd’s purse; Chicken – chicken, napa cabbage and cilantro; Vegan – pumpkin, edamame, shiitake mushroom and corn; and Wontons – chicken, spinach, shepherd’s purse, served with a sesame sauce. From what I saw of the preparation of my order and a few other orders, the dumplings are all cooked fresh while you wait. 

I know I should have gone for the classic fried potstickers, but the Dumpling Hunter is on a diet, so I went for the steamed Classic dumplings and the braised pork bao.  The pork dumplings were well seasoned, tasty and juicy, a good dumpling, but not outstanding.  The dumplings came with two thimble sized tubs, one with a soy-based dipping sauce and the other with hot chili oil.  It was impossible to dip the dumplings into the tiny tubs, so the only way I could enjoy the sauces was to bite off part of the dumpling and then pour a bit of the sauce into the dumpling. 

The white fluffy, open bao came with generous serving of pulled pork, that had been braised for six hours, preserved vegetables and cucumber.  The pork had a lot going on flavor-wise; sweetness, savory soy and slightly spicy. I would return to Stick to My Pot for this snack.   Top Tip on the Bao: eat this first.  The bao is served in a little paper envelope and mine kept steaming while I ate the dumplings.  So by the time I turned my attention to the bao, the fluffy bun was over cooked and had lost its ability to contain the pork.  As a result it was a messy, but very tasty snack.

The Location: Stick to My Pot Potstickers is on 35th street, between 7th and 8th avenue.  This the southern edge of Manhattan’s Garment District and is very close to Penn Station.  This restaurant will likely become my snack destination before riding the rails.

Posted in Bao, Buns, Chinese, Chive, Gyoza, New York City, Pork, Potsticker, Steamed | Leave a comment

Around the World in 50 Dumplings

Jerry Ma at Epic Proportions has done it again – dumpling themed art (see my review of his graphic novel, The Dim Sum Gang).  He just released a limited edition illustrated art print, “Around the World in 50 Dumplings”. The dumplings are all rendered in Jerry’s comic illustration style, and anthropomorphized with faces and individual expressions. They look like they could be the cast for the much anticipated Dim Sum Gang sequel.

Jerry managed to include many of my favorites and some I have yet to try.  But inexplicably he overlooked the Cornish Pasty, Britain’s contribution to the dumpling kingdom. The British contributions to world cuisine are too commonly overlooked.    

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Shanghai Time, Manhattan, New York

Shanghai Time had me at “it our mission to introduce the traditional Shanghainese Shengjianbao to the New York City culinary community”, I love Sheng Jian Bao and great ones are hard to find in the U.S.  I first tried this style of dumplings at Yang’s Fried Dumplings in Shanghai, which launched my ongoing search to find these dumplings in the U.S. and inspired me to start this blog.  Shanghai Time has got a huge menu, with an array of Shanghainese dishes, lots of dumpling offerings and three styles of Sheng Jian Bao. The marinated pork belly on the cold appetizers menu is amazing, try this. The restaurant is a casual café with super-fast service and doesn’t sell alcohol, but you can bring your own.  Each table has the all-important instructions for eating Sheng Jian Bao without burning yourself with the soup.

The Dumplings:  Shanghai Time serves three types of Sheng Jian Bao: pork, which has a white flour wrapper; pork and crab meat, which has a yellow wrapper; and shrimp, which has a black wrapper.  We tried the pork and pork and crab sheng jian bao, the rice shumai with bacon and the pork and shrimp potstickers.  Both styles of bao were delicious with at least two Chinese soup spoons worth of soup in each bao.  While most places in the U.S. that serve Sheng Jian Bao pan-fry the bottom of the bao, Shanghai Time cooks them the traditional (and better) way with the pleated side pan-fried.  Because the pleats tend to be the thickest part of the wrapper this preparation produces a crispy outer layer to the fried part of the wrapper, with a layer of fluffy sweet dough wrapper beneath the crispy exterior.  Weirdly, while the copy on their web-site makes the point that they prepare the bao in the traditional manner, the banner graphic on their web-site shows the Sheng Jian Bao fried on the non-pleated, bottom side. 

Shanghai style shumai are stuffed with pork flavored savory, sticky rice, usually with flecks of BBQ pork mixed into the rice, making the filling similar to Southern U.S. style “dirty rice”.   Shanghai Time takes these shumai to 11 by adding bacon to the rice.  So good!! The pork and shrimp pot stickers were also really good; flavorful pork and chunks of sweet shrimp with enough juice that they border on being a soup dumpling.  We also got the BBQ pork buns.  The word from my dinning companions was that they were really good, but I was too full to indulge.

The Location.  Shanghai Time is in NYC’s Garment District neighborhood, on 38th street between 7th and 8th Avenues.  It is located almost at the corner of 8th avenue and this stretch of 38th street is pretty dismal, so I recommend coming from 8th Ave as opposed to 7th Ave.

Posted in Bao, Buns, Chinese, New York City, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Rice Dumplings, Shanghai, Sheng Jian Bao, Shrimp, Shumai, Soup Dumpling, Sticky Rice | Leave a comment

Ninja Bao, Philadelphia

Ninja Bao is a small kiosk sized restaurant in the underground concourse of Philly’s Suburban Station. They have an extensive menu that serves bao, gyoza, buns, wontons, sheng jian bao, and ramen.  Ninja Bao is counter service and has seating for about a dozen people, and when I was there for lunch it was doing crazy amounts of take-out business.  Both of my dumpling orders were served in to-go boxes with little tubs of dipping sauce. This is a great place to get tasty food during duty jury lunch breaks.

The Dumplings: Ninja Bao has an extensive menu of bao, gyoza and wontons and I tried the pork wontons in chili oil and the sheng jian bao (pan fried soup dumplings).  The wonton filling does not have the usual aromatics of ginger and garlic mixed into the pork, instead they use aromatics-infused water to make the wonton skins.  They take this approach so that you get the flavor but don’t bite into pieces of garlic or ginger in the filling.  The tasty filling is also flavored their homemade soy sauce.  The wontons come doused in chili oil and adorned with chopped scallions and cilantro, but while flavorful, the chili oil is disappointingly mild.

The sheng jian bao come 6 to an order and are pan-fried golden brown on the pleated side.  The bao skins are admirably thin and the pork filling is seasoned with scallions and fresh ginger and is super flavorful.  The bao I was served only had a modest amount of soup inside, but was rich and flavorful. Ninja Bao is a tiny place so you get your soup dumplings almost directly off the fry pan, so they are really hot. Make sure you follow correct procedures for eating these buns or you will get burned.

The Location: Ninja Boa is in Suburban Station’s underground concourse near City Hall.  Use the escalators across from City Hall (directly west of City Hall) to go down to the concourse level.  At the bottom of the escalators you should see the Post Office, Ninja Bao is about 20 yards to the left of the Post Office, past the Dunkin Donuts.   

Posted in Bao, Buns, Philadelphia, Pork, Sheng Jian Bao, Soup Dumpling, Wontons | Leave a comment

The Dim Sum Gang: A Dumpling Hunter Book Review

The Dim Sum Gang is a dark graphic novel that uses the anthropomorphized perspective of pieces of dim sum to critique the profession of Dumpling Hunting and advance a raw food agenda.  The story begins with the origin story of a Xiao Long Bao’s awakening consciousness as it is assembled from dough, soup and pork filling and then steamed.  Bao’s happiness in the warm steamer basket is short lived as it sees its companions snatched away by swooping, diving chop sticks.  With the help of two pieces of Stinky Tofu co-joined on a skewer, Bao makes its escape and begins its journey across a landscape of Chinese banquet tables littered with steamer baskets. Along the way Bao meets a cast of dim sum characters, such as Sticky Rice and Chicken Foot and the Queen of the banquet, Peking Duck.  The journey leads up to a battle royal between two Sesame Balls, in which sesame seeds fly like throwing stars in an issue of Frank Miller’s Daredevil or Neal Adams’ Armor. Throughout the journey Stinky Tofu acts as the story’s Greek chorus and reader’s acerbic guide to the world of Dim Sum.  One wonders whether Stinky Tofu is a reference to Yuen King-Tan’s Abacus Fong character in Michelle Yeoh’s classic 1994 film Wing Chun.  

While the story could superficially be read as the finding of family or community through the adversities of a hero’s journey narrative, the Dim Sum Gang is actually both a woke polemic demonizing food bloggers and social media food influencers and sly, but confusing, propaganda for the raw food movement.  While food bloggers are largely relegated to the gutters around the frames, the only in-frame illustration of a food blogger is of a hapless newbie experiencing the face burn of biting directly into a Xiao Long Bao.  Nowhere in the story are the cultural and social contributions of the food blogger depicted, nor the job creation benefits to society, or the hardships and health risk of excess eating faced by the food blogger.  The scene in which Bao is able to hide beneath Stinky Tofu, because no one wants to touch Stinky Tofu, is ridiculous.  No self-respecting food blogger would turn away from Stinky Tofu, like the obvious metaphor to Abacus Fong, Stinky Tofu has a soft interior beneath its harsh aggressive façade. 

The notion that Bao gains sentience and begins its hero’s journey through the process of being assembled and steamed reveals the author’s extreme pro-raw food agenda.  Clearly the authors are saying that only raw unprocessed foods can be ethically consumed by food bloggers. Since it is impossible to eat an unassembled dumpling, the story attempts to single out Dumpling Hunting as inherently wrong.  But the slaying of one vegan sesame ball by another in the final Ninja throwing star/seed fight scene calls into question whether the authors are trying to indoctrinate the reader into full on raw food veganism.  After all, on the pen-ultimate page the sesame ball cries “Are you not entertained?!”  As such the authors appear to subvert their original pro-raw food vegan message, leaving this reader ultimately confused.  The authors acknowledge this contradiction in the final frame with Stinky Tofu saying “Seriously – what the Hell just happened?” (perhaps alluding to the final battle in Wing Chun).   This final panel lets the average reader off the hook, leaving only the Dumpling Hunter as the target of the author’s sharp barbs.          


The Dim Sum Gang was drawn by Jerry Ma and written by Parry Shen.  I drank some Scotch with Jerry at the NY Comic Con and he gifted me a copy of the Dim Sung Gang.  He has created art for the NY Mets and the NY Asian Film Festival and published the excellent “Monkey King” graphic novel.  His work can be seen and purchased at the Epic Proportions website; buy Dim Sum Gang there. I am the very happy owner of several pieces of Jerry’s original art.

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Lisa’s Dumplings, New York, NY

Lisa’s Dumplings is in the Turnstyle Underground Market, one of the NYC MTA’s attempts at an Asian style underground shopping arcade.  Lisa’s has an open kitchen concept where the dumpling wrappers are rolled out on a counter in front of the customers and there is a team working away putting stuffing in the wrappers and pinching them closed. Like all of the food outlets in Turnstyle, Lisa’s is a to-go kiosk, but there is seating in the main aisle of the arcade. Lisa moved from Northern China 20 years ago and since then has been building a hospitality empire, with a fine wine and spirits shop in Massapequa, Panda Bubble Tea and investments in several restaurants in Flushing, Queens.

The Dumplings:  The menu includes dumplings stuffed with: pork & Chinese cabbage; pork & green pepper; pork & sauerkraut; chicken and green peppers; beef & celery; beef & onion; shrimp, egg and chives; shrimp, pork and chives; and veggies – Chinese cabbage, mushroom, and carrot.  All of the dumplings can be ordered steamed or pan-fried.  The dumplings are served in clam-shell to-go containers with a small tub of dipping sauce. 

I went with the classic, pan-fried pork and Chinese cabbage, which were delicious.  The wrappers were medium thick, and so slightly chewier than pan-fried gyoza style wrappers, and were seared on just the bottom surface of the dumpling.  The pork and cabbage filling was savory with a strong pork flavor and the filling was really juicy.  Biting into these dumplings when they are first served risks having hot juice spilled on your chin or shirt.

My one complaint with Lisa’s is that the dumplings are a little pricey, 7 dumplings for $10.99.  Maybe these prices are the result of inflation or the MTA trying to subsidize commuters by charging high rents for the kiosks in the arcade.        

The Location:  The Turnstyle Underground Market is an underground arcade of shops and food kiosks that stretches from the 59th street Columbus circle subway station to 57th street.  These underground arcades are common in Asian cities and some of the ones I have visited in Seoul go for blocks and blocks in multiple directions from the subway station.  NYC only has a few of them and the Turnstyle Market is one of the MTA’s latest efforts to create these types of commercial and eating spaces.   

Posted in Chinese, New York City, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker | 3 Comments

Corey’s Crafty Vietnamese Cuisine, Philadelphia

Corey’s Crafty Vietnamese Cuisine has been criminally overlooked by the Philly food press. As of 9/4/2023 it has 100% five-star reviews (on 129 reviews) on Google, but no articles have been written about the restaurant by the local papers, online news outlets or food blogs.  Corey’s serves up some of the best Vietnamese food in Philadelphia, with amazing rice dishes, Pho, Banh Mi and Bun. The Com Dac Biet is sensational – it is a broken rice dish with your choice of a Vietnamese BBQ pork chop or boneless BBQ pork, with pate and shrimp and a fried egg that is cooked with insane technique. The vegan salt and pepper crusted tofu is another standout dish and is the best substitute for salt and pepper shrimp I have come across.  They serve a house made chili oil that is blazing hot, but has layers of flavor, some of which comes from Kaffir lime, which brings bright and tangy notes. Chef Corey has a classical French cuisine background, having worked in top restaurants in Philly, and opened up his own venture in the penumbra of the pandemic.    

The Dumplings: Corey’s menu has five dumpling options, each of which is served with its own sauce.  The vegan Portobello Mushroom and Leek dumplings come with a soy balsamic vinaigrette over baby greens, and while the dumplings could stand alone flavor-wise, you will want to sop up all of the vinaigrette with the dumplings and eat the greens garnish to get every last bit of the sauce.  This dish can be ordered with steamed or pan-fried dumplings. 

I have also had the Golden Bags several times, which are deep-fried dumplings filled with shrimp and crab, wrapped in a pouch made of a wonton wrapper that has been tied shut with pandam leave strips.  These dumplings come sitting on a sweet and spicy chili sauce.  The shrimp and crab filling always tastes fresh and flavorful and the thin crispy wrapper provides a great textural contrast to the filling.  One issue with this dish is that it is a little hard to get the chili sauce onto the dumplings, a side bowl of sauce that the dumplings could be dunked into would be welcome.          

Another favorite is the Berkshire Pork and Shrimp Dumpling served with a roasted bell pepper sauce. The wonton wrapper on these dumplings is thicker, so when you order the deep-fried version, the wrappers are crispy, crunchy and bubbled like a cannoli shell.  These dumplings have a seriously unctuous, savory pork flavor, typical of Berkshire pork, that is delicious, but I am never quite sure what the shrimp bring to the recipe.  As with the other sauces, the roasted bell pepper sauce is a tasty compliment to the dumplings. 

In addition to these dumplings, Corey’s serves Crispy Curry Chicken Dumplings and Beef Dumplings.

      

The Location:  Corey’s Crafty Vietnamese Cuisine is on the 1300 block of South Street in Philadelphia.  Their web-site is pretty poor, lacks photos of a lot of the dishes and generally looks like it is from the early 2000’s.  But ignore their weak web presence and go for the food.

Posted in Dipping Sauce, Pan Fried, Pork, Shrimp, Steamed, Vegan, Vegetarian, Vietnamese | Leave a comment