Chang Chang, Washington, DC

Posted on November 10, 2025 by rundlea

Chang Chang is part of Chef Peter Chang’s restaurant empire and focuses on the flavors from Hunan, Shanghai, and Canton, with influences from the Chinese diaspora in Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand, and Peru.  Peter Chang got his start working at luxury hotels in China and after winning national cooking competitions he took the foreign service cooking test and became the chef of the Embassy of China in Washington DC.

My experience at Chang Chang had some bumps. The first table we were seated at was covered, including the plates, glasses and tableware, with a very, very fine red powder. It was not immediately noticeable until it got on our hands and clothes.  The staff said the dust must have been left over from some construction work done on the front door earlier that day – not reassuring.   The other bump were that service had some gaps.  We had to ask multiple times to get bowls of rice with our main dishes and to get some chili oil.    

Although the dumplings were not among them, there were some standout dishes that I might return for.  The Dry Fried Cumin Fish was amazing and moderately spicy.  The dish was comprised of pieces of whitefish cut like chicken fingers, that have been fried in a spiced batter.   I have been seeing Sour Cabbage Fish Soup on more and more Chinese restaurant menus in NYC and I was excited to try it for the first time.  I don’t have prior experience with this dish to compare it against, but I really enjoyed the Sour Cabbage Fish Soup at Chang Chang.  The fish was delicately cooked and the broth had a sour punch and a slow burn heat that built up over the course of eating it.

The Dumplings.  Chang Chang’s dumplings were a disappointment.  First of all they are expensive, depending on the dumpling $10 to $16 for orders of four dumplings.  We went with the pan-fried option for the vegetable dumplings, which turned out to be really bland and non-descript.  One of the dumplings, which you can see in the picture, had a torn wrapper and looked kind of beat up. We also got the Signature Pan-Fried Shrimp Dumplings which are served embedded in a lacey, delicate crust of fried batter.  These gyoza style dumplings were large and packed with shrimp, but they also had very little flavor.  I ended up eating them because I enjoyed the texture and, most importantly, as something to dip into the amazing soy chili oil dipping sauce.  The shrimp dumplings and the vegetable dumplings just served as a vehicle for eating the dipping sauce, which I would return to Chang Chang to get again.    

The Location:  Chang Chang is at 1200 19th St NW, in the Dupont Circle neighborhood and is two blocks south of the Circle.

Posted in Celebrity Chef, Chinese, D.C., Dipping Sauce, Fish, Pan Fried, Soup, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

Dim Sum Sam, Upper West Side, Manhattan

Posted on November 3, 2025 by rundlea

I will begin this review by saying that I did not enjoy my dumplings at the Upper West Side Dim Sum Sam.  This location only recently opened and hopefully it is just a matter of the staff getting the initial kinks out of the system.  Given its pedigree, Dim Sum Sam has every chance of improving and becoming great. 

Dim Sum Sam is a NYC based fast casual, mini-chain focused on the “greatest hits” of Dim Sum and is owned by the team behind the Dim Sum Palace mini-chain.  I have eaten at the Hell’s Kitchen and the Korea Town Dim Sum Palace locations and really enjoyed eating at both of them.  At Dim Sum Sam you order your food via a touch screen system, which is missing pictures for a lot of the food items and is really slow to use.  I imagine at lunch or dinner rush long lines can form at the two ordering kiosks. The restaurant has four 4-top tables, a 2-top table and a row of eight stools at a bar looking out onto Broadway.  I get the idea of the fast casual, Dim Sum concept, but the Upper West Side Dim Sum Sam is still figuring out how to execute on it.

The Dumplings:  I ordered four of the wide variety of dumplings that Dim Sum Sam serves, which usually come three to an order.  The pork soup dumplings were well cooked and none of the wrappers had ruptured and leaked their soup, but that is probably because the wrappers were quite robust and thick – these were not delicate Xio Long Bao.  These bao had a good amount of soup in them, close to two spoonsful of the small plastic spoons they provide, but the soup had a metallic taste to it. 

Just like at Dim Sum Palace the filling of the shrimp and pea shoot dumplings was delicious, but at Dim Sum Sam they had been totally overcooked.  The dumpling wrappers had glued themselves to the bottom of the steamer and the wrappers pulled apart when I tried to pick them up with my chopsticks – basically I ate de-constructed shrimp and pea shoot dumplings.  The steamed roast duck dumplings had the same issue, and as a bonus they did not taste great.  The filling had been over-seasoned, with what tasted like 5-spice powder, such that the roast duck flavor was overpowered and lost.

The last dumpling that I tried was the pan-fired pork and leak dumplings.  These dumplings tasted good, and I was enjoying them until I bit into a hard piece of pork gristle or cartilage.  I stopped eating this order.

The Location:  the Upper West Side of Manhattan location of Dim Sum Sam is on Broadway between 92nd and 93rd street, on the west side of the street.  This location is easily accessible from the 96th street 1,2,3 train station.  

Posted in Bao, Buns, Dim Sum, New York City, Pan Fried, Pea vine, Pork, Shrimp, Soup Dumpling, Steamed, Xiao Long Bao | 1 Comment

Tour of Cheap Dumpling Spots in Manhattan’s Chinatown

Posted on October 27, 2025 by rundlea

I recently Googled cheap dumplings in NYC Chinatown and put together a tour of dumpling spots for a friend and I to try out.  The Google search returned a bunch of listicles on best dumpling eating in Chinatown and that should have been my first clue that there was already a well-trod dumpling dining circuit in Chinatown.  We hit four places in one evening and enjoyed a lot of great dumplings, but the places were crowded with tourists and young white people shooting photos for the socials.  The four places we hit were unified by one other feature – they all had large old sriracha bottles filled with soy based dipping sauce on the tables.   

Our first stop was King Dumpling in the corner of Hester and Allen streets.  They were out of pan-fried pork buns so we got the pan-fried pork dumplings.  These dumplings had a thick chewy wrapper with the bottom of the wrapper crispy pan-fried and they had lots of peppery chives mixed into the pork filling.  My friend and I were both impressed that the dumplings were not greasy at all and we enjoyed the toothsome texture of the wrappers. These dumplings were really savory and were perhaps a little over salted.  King Dumpling has one table and a few window counter seats, so we took our dumpling packed to-go container and ate at a table on the pedestrian/cyclist mall that divides the uptown and downtown sides of Allen Street.

Our second stop was at North Dumpling, on Essex street between Grand and Hester streets, which had the best dumplings of the night.  We ordered the steamed vegetable dumplings which appeared to be filled solely with cabbage.  Like King Dumpling, the wrappers were relatively thick and chewy but the cabbage inside was crunchy.   The filling had a distinct peppery taste and we could not decide if it was black pepper, cumin or 5 spice, but between the fresh cruciferous flavor of the cabbage and the pepper these dumplings were delicious.  Like King Dumpling, North Dumpling is tiny and there were no available seats, so we gabbed a park bench in Seward park across the street from North Dumpling.    

Super Taste, on Eldridge Street between Canal and Division streets, seemed to have a largely tourist clientele.  We got the Shanghai Dumplings, which, because there were several other choices on the menu labelled soup dumplings, we were a little surprised to see were also soup dumplings. The dumplings were overcooked and all of the wrappers had ruptured by the time they were served to us.  You can see in the picture that the dumplings were sitting in the container, in a pool of soup.  But the delicate soup was delicious, as was the pork filling of the dumplings.  My friend described the soup this way – lite and nuanced, without too much salt, allowing the flavors to unfold in an orchestral way.  Super Taste is larger than the previous two restaurants and we were able to gets seats and eat in.

We ended the night at Shu Jiao Fuzhou Cuisine on Grand street between Eldridge and Allen streets.  This was the largest and most touristy of our tour stops.  Here we got the steamed mini pork buns, which were packed with chunks of braised pork and chunks of mushroom.  The bun itself was very light and fluffy and slightly sweet.  This was a delicious order of bao.  Shu Jiao Fu Zhou has lots of bench style tables that were basically communal tables with people squeezed in eating their food.  My suggestion is that if you see a gap at a table, just ask your fellow diners if it is OK to squeeze in.  

Posted in Bao, Buns, Chinese, Chive, New York City, Pan Fried, Pork, Soup Dumpling, Steamed, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

Pho Skyline, Philadelphia, PA

Posted on October 19, 2025 by rundlea

Pho Skyline has quickly become my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Philadelphia. It is a small casual family and friends run business that can seat around 30 people and does a robust take-out business. Pho Skyline traces its origins to a friendship that began at the Viet Huong restaurant, in the Wing Phat Plaza on 11th and Washington.  Vincent Tran and Kiet Trinh, and Trinh’s mother Nhan who most recently cooked at Hello Vietnam in Northern Liberties, initially launched an online catering company, Bet Viet Phila, and then opened Pho Skyline in February 2024.

The menu offers a selection of vegan dishes, including exceptional tofu summer rolls.  Some of my favorite dishes are the Banh Mi Op La (this is a deconstructed Banh Mi with three sunny-side eggs, steamed pork roll slices, house mayo and pate served with an amazing crispy baguette) and the Mi Kho Tom Thit (a dry noodle dish with broth on the side for sipping, with pork slices, ground pork and shrimp over eggs noodles, with a house dressing sauce, bean sprouts, scallions, crunchy pork rind, and crispy chives).

The Dumplings:  Pho Skyline serves Hoành Thánh Chiên, aka fried pork and shrimp wontons.  They make these small dumplings fresh in-house and they are juicy, savory and have big chunks of shrimp mixed in with the pork.  I did not particularly care for the thick, sweet orange dipping sauce – I think it was a variation on duck sauce. But there are bottles of slightly thick, deeply flavored soy sauce on each table, and this soy sauce goes perfectly with these dumplings.  After my first bite into each dumpling, I drizzled some of this soy sauce into the dumpling.  This combination of fried dumplings and soy sauce was very good.

Pho Skyline also sells the Vietnamese pyramid shaped rice flower dumpling.  This style of dumpling has ground pork, usually with wood ear mushroom and a quail egg, embedded in a pyramid of gelatinous rice flower. The rice flower pyramid is wrapped in banana leaves, which impart a tea-like flavor to the rice flour when the dumpling is steamed cooked.  I have tried this style of dumpling a couple of times and unfortunately I am not a fan. 

The Location:  Pho Skyline is in Philadelphia’s Italian Market on Christian street, just west of 9th street.

Posted in Gyoza, Noodles, Philadelphia, Pork, Shrimp, Wontons | Leave a comment

SouthGate Philadelphia, PA

Posted on October 12, 2025 by rundlea

After being underwhelmed by dancerobot we decided to finish a Saturday night out at the Korean-American gastropub SouthGate.  As a fusion restaurant the menu has several American dishes remixed with Korean flavors – French fries with a kimchi vinaigrette, French fries with a puree of garlic and scallion and gochugaro aioli (SouthGate fries), a Seoul Nashville style hot-chicken, and Korean tacos.  The SouthGate fries were a disappointment, tossing the fries in pureed garlic and scallion and an aioli just made the fries limp and soggy. But the menu also has some Korean classics, like mandoo, sotteok, ssam, dolsot bibimbap and a range of soju.  The restaurant has a long bar, tables along the wall opposite the bar and some outdoor seating.

The Dumplings and Buns:  Southgate has pork mandoo and vegetable mandoo which can be served either steamed or fried.   I suspect that these dumplings were the frozen mass-produced variety, but even if I am correct here, I enjoyed the fried order of pork dumplings I got at SouthGate more than I enjoyed the house made dumplings at dancerobot.  Southgate also serves stuffed bao pockets with a choice of bulgogi beef, spicey pork, shitake mushrooms or tofu filling.  The bao also come adorned with pickles and sesame aioli.  The tofu bao was really good – the tofu was lightly fried on the outside and soft on the inside and I really enjoyed the sesame aioli and the acidity of the pickles.  I would go back to SouthGate for more tofu bao.

The Location:  SouthGate is on the corner of 18th and Lombard streets in Philadelphia’s Graduate Hospital neighborhood.         

Posted in Bao, Buns, Korean, Mandoo, Philadelphia, Pork, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

dancerobot, Philadelphia, PA

Posted on October 5, 2025 by rundlea

I did not completely get dancerobot’s concept, their web site describes it as “’80s-inflected Japanese izakaya” and the press articles running up to its opening describe it with variations of “Neon-lit ’80s Japanese izakaya”.  Other than the entranceway being papered in old anime and movie posters and the website looking like a Macintosh computer screen, if Mac screen’s had neon colors back in the 80’s, it is unclear how this restaurant relates to the ‘80’s.  Certainly, the dimly lit Victorian style bar/restaurant space has no neon lights.  dancerobot serves yōshoku style Japanese food, which is a style of Western-influenced cooking which began back in the mid-1800’s (not 1980s). The dishes are European dishes re-interpreted for the Japanese consumer, usually featuring Western-ish names.

The Cheesy Mentaiko Ommelette, which is an egg folded around Cooper sharp cheese with Mentaiko mayo on top of the egg, was good, but the cheese had such a strong flavor the Mentaiko was overwhelmed.  The Saba Shiovaki, grilled Norwegian Mackerel, was an excellent expertly grilled piece of Mackerel. 

Currently reservations are unavailable, so we got there at the 4pm opening hoping to grab some bar seats.  When we rolled up at 3:50, there was already a line of like-minded people, and we were lucky to get the last two seats at the bar.  A lot of dancerobot’s hype is due to it being the new restaurant from the team at Royal Izakaya and Sushi, but the stated concept seems to have gotten lost in the execution and food is good, but not yet living up to the hype.  We had a few dishes and then went to South Gate to finish our night of eating.

The Dumplings:  The Ebi Chili Gyoza are pan-fried flat dumplings filled with chunks of sweet fresh shrimp, served in a puddle of vinegar flavored soy sauce.  Separately the dumplings and the sauce probably would have tasted excellent, but when served together the dumplings got sodden in sauce, which becomes overpowering, and the gyoza wrappers lost their crunch.  This dish would have been much better if the sauce were served on the side for dipping.

Sorry the photos are pretty bad, dancerobot is dimly lit so it is hard to take photos

The Age Takoyaki was the best dish we ate at dancerobot.  These octopus balls are prepared with a sauce of brown butter and fish sauce and are adorned with caramelized fried shallots and bonito flakes.  The funk from the fish sauce and the crunch from the fried shallots were the perfect complement to the creaminess of the interior of the fried balls.  Each of the Takoyaki contained a generous portion of slightly chewy octopus. This was a great dish.

The Location:  dancerobot is on the 1700 block of Sansom street, in Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse neighborhood.

Posted in Gyoza, Japanese, Pan Fried, Philadelphia, Shrimp, Takoyaki | Leave a comment

Hsu’s Gourmet, Atlanta GA

Posted on September 9, 2025 by rundlea

While at a recent conference in downtown Atlanta I was lucky to find Hsu’s Gourmet, a gloriously old school American Chinese restaurant.  Depending on which part of their web site you believe, Hsu’s opened in 1989 or 1983.  Hsu’s on the street level of a parking garage building and, because it only has windows on one side which have closed shades on them, it feels like you are eating in a dimly lit underground bunker. As you enter the restaurant take a minute to check out the wall of photos of celebrities posing with the owner – Betty White ate at Hsu’s, as did Spike Lee.   Hsu’s serves the classics of American style Szechuan and Cantonese dishes and they have a great hot and sour soup which comes with fried wonton chips on the side.  This area of Atalanta is not great for food – a taco place with lots of fried food, a Hooters, a Hard Rock Café, a faux Irish pub… – but Hsu’s is really worth checking out.

The Dumplings:  I was there for lunch and the lunch menu includes Shantung Dumplings, fried chicken dumplings, vegetable steamed dumplings and wonton soup.   The Shantung Dumplings are your basic pork and veg dumplings with the option of having them steamed or grilled.  The grilled version is the classic gyoza style dumpling that are pan-fried on the bottom surface, and were juicy and quite tasty.  The menu describes the dipping sauce as a “Ginger Soy Vinaigrette Dipping Sauce”, which is just the traditional soy sauce and rice vinegar mix with a little crushed ginger. 

I also got the wonton soup which came with two shrimp and pork wontons in a clear light, but tasty, broth.  Both wontons were missing part of the wrapper (you can see this in the photo) and I suspect they had been pre-made and sat in a refrigerator, such that the skins had stuck together and then tore a little during cooking.  But the wontons tasted fresh, with the shrimp providing a slight sweet counterpoint to the savory pork.  The soup came with fried wonton skin chips to add to the soup, which I liked a lot.  When I first moved to NYC, wonton soup always came with fried wontons chips, but it seems like this is becoming less common these days.

The Location:  Hsu’s is on the corner of Peachtree Center Ave and Andrew Young International Blvd, with its entrance on Peachtree Center Ave.  The building is otherwise a parking garage.

Posted in Chinese, Dipping Sauce, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Shrimp, Wontons | Leave a comment

OMNI Plant-Based Potstickers, Frozen Dumpling Review

Posted on August 18, 2025 by rundlea

It has become impossible to find OMNI’s excellent plant-based ground pork and pork shreds in stores over the past few months.  I made some really good vegan dumplings with the ground pork [see here and here] and the shreds were good for making vegan tacos.  Now it seems that the only OMNI products being stocked are the Teriyaki Bao, which were very good, and the Potstickers.  There are lots of comments on Reddit lamenting the missing ground pork and shreds products.

Unfortunately, the potstickers are nowhere near as good as the bao – they were utterly flavorless, just a flavor void.  This is surprising since the ingredients include soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger and yeast extract (a way food companies add MSG to food without having to include it on the ingredient list).  At best these dumplings served as a dipping sauce delivery vehicle.  I really hope that they bring back the ground pork product, I want to make my own vegan OMNI pork dumplings again.

Plate and bowl by Dumpling Hunter

Posted in Dipping Sauce, Frozen Dumpling Review, Gyoza, Pan Fried, Pork, Potsticker, Vegan, Vegan Recipe | Leave a comment

MoonNight, Philadelphia, PA

Posted on August 11, 2025 by rundlea

Philadelphia’s MoonNight serves Vietnamese and Japanese dishes, including Pho, Ramen, Chả Giò, Gyoza, Buns, Bánh Mì, Yakitori, Crispy Garlic Wings, and Fried Wontons. MoonNight serves several vegan options, including vegetarian spring rolls, spicy cucumber, vegie dumplings, a ramen, a Pho, and a Seitan Banh Mi. They also sell lots of fruit tea, some green teas, milk teas, smoothies, and Vietnamese coffees. It is a small brightly lit restaurant with 5 or 6 tables. This review reports on my first trip there, when I just needed a snack, and I will be going back to fully explore the menu.

The Dumplings: MoonNight sells pork gyoza, veggie gyoza, deep fried pork and shrimp wontons with sweet chili sauce, steamed veggie dumplings, pork buns, fried curry chicken dumplings and, because this is Philly, cheesesteak buns (cheesesteak, pickled cucumber and lettuce). I tried the pork buns which come two to an order and are steamed fluffy white buns, stuffed with braised pork belly, pickled cucumber, lettuce and a sesame spicy mayo dressing. These buns were delicious, the braised pork was tender and tasty and I really enjoyed the mayo dressing, which had a decent kick. There was enough sauce on these buns that eating them is a little messy.

The Location: MoonNight is on E. Passyunk Ave, just south of Mifflin street. The E. Passyunk Ave corridor is one the major nightlife districts in Philadelphia and has tons of restaurants, cafes and bars. MoonNight is very close to a triangular pocket park, which is home to the statue of the legendary Philly boxer Joey Giardello. This park has a few tables and is a great place to eat some to-go food from MoonNight.

Posted in Bao, Buns, Japanese, Philadelphia, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

Because I Don’t Only Eat Dumplings: A Review of Lay’s Chinese Potato Chips

Posted on July 31, 2025 by rundlea

I spend a lot of time in Asian grocery stores picking out frozen dumplings to try. I am also fascinated by the packaged snack aisle, especially the huge variety of Lay’s Potato Chips from all over Asia. Why do we have so few flavor options marketed to us in the U.S.? I recently grabbed four bags from Lay’s Chinese flavors product line.

Roasted Garlic Oyster Flavor

These are my favorite of the four bags I sampled for this post and the best of all of the flavors I have tried over the past year. These chips have a legit, solid garlic flavor and totally remind me of roasted oysters.

The ingredients are pretty cryptic, the third flavor is “food flavor”. The ingredient list includes Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, aspartame (sweetener) and TBHC (oil stabilizer which prolongs shelf life). Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide works synergistically with MSG to produce umami flavor.

Smoked Rib Flavor.

The ingredient list includes only a few ingredients I associate with BBQ ribs. “BBQ seasoning” is listed, but appears to mainly be comprised of salt, sugar and yeast extract, the last of which is a way to get MSG into food. Far down the ingredient list there is ginger, star anise and ginger, which I associate with Asian BBQ flavor. Soy sauce is listed three times among the ingredients. MSG is high up the ingredient list and in combination with the yeast extract, you know that there is a good dose of MSG in these chips (not that is a bad thing).

The chips have a vaguely porky-savory flavor but no discernible smoke flavor or BBQ flavor. If you are looking for a nondescript savory flavor these chips will work.

Zibo Barbecue Style

I did not understand the concept of this variety of chips. Zibo Barbeque Style have a nondescript savory flavor without any particular flavor profile or direction. The ingredients list “Zibo Barbecue Seasoning (citric acid, Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, aspartame)”, which provides no clue as to what this chips are supposed to taste like.

I think part of the confusion is that, as best I can tell, Zibo BBQ describes a style of eating not a signature flavor. Zibo is a city in China that became a viral foodie destination in 2022/2023 for its outdoor BBQ restaurants. In the Zibo style of BBQ, you grill meat skewers on tabletop charcoal stoves and then wrap them in a thin crepe or pancake with a raw green onion stalk and a smear of hot sauce. Other than mentions of cumin commonly being an ingredient, I have not been able to find a description of a unifying flavor for Zibo BBQ, it appears that lots of different sauces and marinades are used.

It seems like these potato chips are not really about a specific flavor profile but invoke a style of dining. The packaging depicts what appear to be chunks of grilled meat, on a crepe with a scallion stalk.

Hot and Sour Lemon Braised Chicken Feet Flavor

I can find recipes and YouTube videos for Lemon Braised Chicken Feet (柠檬凤爪), so I think this is a legit Chinese dish. Of Lays Chinese flavors, this one is one of the best and these chips deliver the exact flavor promised on the bag – they are hot, sour and lemony. I am not sure if there is any contribution of chicken feet flavor, but from what I have read chicken feet do not have much flavor, which is part of why they are often cooked by braising them with strong aromatics and spices.

These chips also have a cryptic ingredient list – the third ingredient is “Flavor”. Followed on the list by our friend Disodium 5′-ribonucleotide, and then DL-malic acid (a sour flavor), capsaicin, aspartame and TBHC.

Posted in Chinese, Pork, Uncategorized | Leave a comment