Konbu StreetFood, Groningen, NL

Takoyaki in Groningen

Dumpling hunting in Amsterdam turned out to be a bust, the Dutch do not have indigenous dumpling form and overall the Asian restaurants I saw didn’t look that good.  But I do want to give a shout out to Onigiri YA! in the De Pijp neighborhood, they make some of the best rice balls I have tried.  The owner is from Japan and has been in Amsterdam for six months and opened Onigiri YA! about two months ago.  The rice balls are handmade fresh each morning and the Pork with Wasabi Rice Ball is excellent.

For the second part of my trip to the Netherlands I was in the north of the country, in the city of Groningen.  During a walkabout I stumbled upon Konbu StreetFood, a casual spot that sells dishes from Japan, Korea and Vietnam, including dumplings, kimchi, Korean style fried chicken, Pho, Ramen and Bun.  I think it is a bit of a stretch to call most of their menu “street food” – it is tough to eat Ramen or Bun while standing on the street.

The Dumplings:   Konbu sells steamed shrimp and pork dumplings, grilled gyoza and octopoes (Takoyaki).

Grilled Pork Gyoza

Pork Gyoza – The pork gyoza were pretty standard Japanese restaurant or sushi restaurant appetizer menu gyoza that you can get at many places in the U.S., most likely packaged, frozen dumplings.  The gyoza appeared to have been steamed and then cooked on a griddle which left some crispy grill marks.  They were fine and will hit the spot if you are craving gyoza, but were nothing special.

Octopoes (Takoyaki) – The national bar food in the Netherlands is Bitterballen, which are small croquettes with a fried bread crumb outer layer and an interior made of a roux or dough of butter, flour, stock and flecks of meat, that has a texture of whipped mashed potato.  The Octopoes at Konbu are a Bitterballen-esque interpretation of Takoyaki.  Typically Takoyaki have a hollow interior housing pieces of octopus, but the ones at Konbu were completely filled with creamy dough with pieces of octopus embedded in the dough filling.  They were good, but they were closer to a croquette than a dumping.  They came dressed with Worcestershire sauce, mayo and flakes of dried seaweed but no Bonito slivers.

Konbu takes pride in its presentation, the pork gyoza were served on a small wooden cutting board and the Octopoes were served in a small wire fryer basket lined with wax paper.

The Dipping Sauce:  The pork goyza came with a soy and vinegar sauce flavored with slivered scallions and ground red pepper flakes.  Each table was also home to squeeze bottles of Hoisin sauce and sriracha sauce, and bottles of chili oil and S&B brand seasoning powder.

The Location:  Konbu Streetfood is on Oosterstraat about 1 block off the main City square.  The square is full of drinking opportunities so Konbu is conveniently located for a post-drinking snack.

Posted in Gyoza, Japanese, Korea, Pork, Takoyaki | Leave a comment

La Salle Dumpling Room, New York, NY

La Salle Dumpling Room opened several months ago in Manhattanville and so far has garnered pretty weak Yelp! and blog reviews.  Some of issues may have related to getting the kinks out of the system as the restaurant opened, although when I looked in on a crowded evening recently a lot of diners appeared to have had been waiting a while for their food to come out of the kitchen.  I finally went to eat their on a quieter night and had some really good dumplings.

The Dumplings:  Only about a quarter of the items on the menu are actually dumplings, they have Gluten Free Dumplings, three styles of Xiao Long Bao – Pork, Pork With Crabmeat, and Pork With Kimchi Dumplings -, Steamed Vegetable Dumplings,  Steamed Berkshire Pork Dumplings, Antibiotic And Hormone Free Chicken Dumplings with cabbage and mushroom, White Fish with scallion, ginger and celery. and steamed seasonal Vegetable Dumplings.

Pork and Kimchi Soup Dumplings

Pork and Kimchi Soup Dumplings

The Pork and Kimchi Soup Dumplings – This is a great idea for a dumpling, and I am surprised that I have not seen it before.  The meat filling is a lot like the filling in my Kimchi and Pulled Pork dumplings recipe, a mix of pork and Nappa cabbage Kimchi, although my recipe uses BBQ pork which adds a smoky flavor.  The pork aspic and kimchi creates about a tablespoon per dumpling of spicy soup that is essentially Kimchi Jjigae, which is an amazing concept for a soup dumpling.  The wrappers for the soup dumplings are quite good, strong enough to contain the soup and maintain the integrity of the dumpling as you pick it up, but not so thick as to be doughy or leathery.  The dumpling in the center of the steamer comes with a little dollp of Gochujang on top.  This could be my new favorite style of soup dumpling.

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings – I thought these mouse shaped dumplings were a little less successful than the Pork and Kimchi Soup Dumplings.  The wrappers tended to tear as I picked them up with the chopsticks leaving finely minced greens in the steamer and on the table.  The wrappers were either too thin or the dumplings were over steamed, I think perhaps the later as the veggies tasted a little over cooked.  The dumplings were definitely generously packed with green veggies and might be worth a second try.  The waiter told me these dumplings were vegan.

The Dipping Sauce:  The sauce that comes with the vegetable dumplings was really flavorful.  According to the waiter the sauce is the chef’s secret and he has not shared the recipe with any of the wait staff.  It is certainly soy based and probably flavored with vinegar and oil, but there is some secret ingredient or proportion of ingredients in there that takes it to the next level.  The soup dumplings came with a black rice vinegar dipping sauce which was sort superfluous when the dumplings came pre-loaded with Kimchi Jjigae soup.

The Location: La Salle Dumpling Room is on the border between the Morningside Heights and Manhattanville neighborhoods, on Broadway a block and a half south of 125th street, on the corner of La Salle Street.  This area is fast becoming a destination for Asian food, with La Salle Dumpling Room, Jin Ramen (DH Review here) , Kissaten Jin and Chapati House all within a block of each other.

 

 

 

Posted in Kimchi, Pork, Soup Dumpling, Steamed, Vegan, Vegetarian | Leave a comment

China Chilcano, Washington, DC

Notice the chipped plate

Pegao Norteno Potstickers embedded in fried lace batter. Notice the chipped plate

China Chilcano is part of celebrity chef Jose Andres’ ever expanding empire of restaurants.  Andres is credited with popularizing small plate tapas-style eating in the U.S. and, with the opening of the original and excellent Jaleo in 1993, transforming the Penn Quarter into a dining and entertainment district.  China Chilcano serves contemporary Peruvian food which reflects Peru’s immigrant history, including Criollo cuisine, which has Spanish and West African influences, Nikkei style Japanese-Peruvian fusion dishes, and Chifa style Chinese-Peruvian fusion dishes.  The inside of China Chilcano is kaleidoscopic, with bold wall  murals, red walls fashioned from shipping containers, green stencils, Edison light bulbs hanging from thick ropes, bamboo cages, a sunken tatami table and a lively bar scene.

Jose Andres’ empire is huge, he owns Jaleo (Washington, DC, Bethesda, Arlington & Las Vegas), minibar by José Andrés (Washington, DC, & Bethesda), barmini by José Andrés (Washington, DC), America Eats Tavern (Virginia), Zaytinya (Washington, DC), Oyamel (Washington, DC), é by José Andrés (Las Vegas), The Bazaar (Beverly Hills, & Miami Beach), China Poblano (Las Vegas), Mi Casa, (Dorado, Puerto Rico), Pepe (Washington, D.C.), Beefsteak (Washington, D.C.), Tres by José Andrés (Los Angeles) and Bazaar Meat by José Andrés (Las Vegas, Nevada).  After a weak meal at Jaleo in Arlington and a recent meh meal at Jaleo in Penn Quarter I have been feeling that Andres is overextended and the dumplings at China Chilcano solidified my view.  Overall I think China Chilcano is dangerously close to being an ‘apostrophe  S’ chain restaurant food experience.

Wantans

Kam Lu Wantans

The Dumplings:  The dim sum corner of the menu includes shumai and dumplings that fuse Chinese and Peruvian ingredients.  Of the eight available offerings I tried three plates, the Dorado Shumai, the Kam Lu  Wantan and the Pegao Norteño.  Judging from what i sampled nobody would accuse China Chilcano of over stuffing their dumplings –  all the dumplings were pretty small and the prices are up there.

Kam Lu  Wantan –  these shrimp and pork filled fried wantons were over cooked and tasted like they were cooked in old burnt fry oil.  The modest amount of shrimp and pork stuffed into these wontons couldn’t muster enough flavor to overcome the greasy old fry oil flavor.  The dipping sauce sounded like it was going to be good, but it wasn’t (see below). Continue reading

Posted in Celebrity Chef, Chinese, D.C., Dim Sum, Gyoza, Japanese, Lamb, Pork, Potsticker, Shrimp, Shumai, Washington, Wontons | Leave a comment

Yasha Ramen, New York, NY

The Yasha Ramen signage

The Yasha Ramen signage

My recent attempt to hunt for dumplings on the Upper West Side of Manhattan turned out to be kind of a fail until I hit Yasha Ramen.  My first stop, La Salle Dumpling Room, was packed with families in town for the Columbia University graduation and there was an hour wait. My next attempt to score dumplings was at Sun Chan, which turned out to be closed because of a gas main problem which had shut down the entire block.  Then I tried Uncle Luoyang, which I have been meaning to try for a while, but I guess I delayed to long because it has gone out of business.  After walking about a mile and a half I found Yasha Ramen, a small ramen joint just south of Columbia University.

Takoyaki

Takoyaki

Steamed pork shumai

Steamed pork shumai

The Dumplings:  Yasha servers takoyaki, shrimp shumai and pork shumai and a dumpling bowl which consists of either fried shrimp or pork shumai in a bowl of rice with cabbage, kale and spicy mayo.  The takoyaki were small but had a good octopus to fried batter ratio. Unfortunately the takoyaki were relatively unadorned and light on mayo and bonito flakes.  They could have used a bit more dressing, but they were tasty and did come on a really cool plate.  The steamed pork shumai filling had pieces of water chestnut mixed in, which gave them a nice crunch texture. I use a similar recipe for my shrimp dumplings.  I have been trying to reduce my salt intake lately so maybe my palette is a little off, but I found the pork filling to be very salty.

The Dipping Sauce:  The plate the shumai were served on had a built in sauce bowl filled with a mix of soy sauce and vinegar. It came with a little dab of mustard to mix in the dipping sauce, which was a really good addition to the shumai.

The Location: Yasha Ramen is in the Manhattan Valley neighborhood between 106th and 107th Streets.  There are a couple of good bars on the block, which is handy because they do not have a liquor license.

Posted in Japanese, New York City, Shumai, Takoyaki | Leave a comment

NY Times: Savory Doughnuts

Expanding the argument about the boundaries of the definition of dumplings, the NY Times just published a short piece about the savory filled doughnuts, or doughpods, which just had their debut at Doughnut Plant.  They make an avocado filled pod, which is like an encapsulated avocado toast, and a samosa pod, which is filled with potato and fresh fenugreek.

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Izakaya Restaurant, New York, NY

Dumpling of the Day at Izakaya Restaurant

Dumpling of the Day at Izakaya Restaurant

Izakaya Restaurant, which basically translates into Restaurant Restaurant, is part of the expanding ecosystem of Japanese restaurants and bars in New York City’s East Village neighborhood. The Izakaya Restaurant is run by a young Japanese guy who came to our table and explained his philosophy for restaurateur-ing and the background on all of the dishes we ordered.  His “Addictive Cabbage” starter dish has garnered a lot of press and internet-love and was really quite amazing.  He told us that the challenge he set himself and his cooks was to create a cabbage dish where the cabbage is not cooked or marinated.  The solution was to extensively and repeatedly wash and massage the cabbage and serve it dressed in sesame oil with a sprinkle of sesame seeds.  He told us that if we didn’t like the Addictive Cabbage we should just get up and walk out of his restaurant and he would understand that the cabbage was not good enough.  I really enjoyed everything we had at Izakaya Restaurant and the menu is pretty deep, so there is more to go back for.

The Dumplings:  The menu only lists one dumpling option, the “dumplings of the day”. The night that we went the waiter told us the dumplings were filled with tuna.  In reality the dumplings were filled with lots of blue cheese and a small amount flaky tuna.  These deep fried dumplings were really enjoyable, they had a strong melted blue cheese flavor with a mild undertone of tuna.  Eating these dumplings was like eating a inverse fondue, the fondue cheese came inside the crispy dipping cracker.  Like everything we tried, the dumplings were  artfully plated and came in a wicker basket.

The Dipping Sauce:  I liked the blue cheese flavor and fondue experience so much that I don’t even recall if they came with a dipping sauce.

The Location:  Saint Marks Place and East Ninth Street have been home to a bunch of Japanese bars and restaurants for a long time, but for the past couple of years this hip Japan-town area has been spreading North, South and East.  Izakaya Restaurant is on East Sixth Street between First and Second Avenue. The restaurant doesn’t have much in the way of signage so look for street number 326 on the south side of the street.

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Return to The Real Le Anh Chinese Food Cart, Philadelphia, PA

Since my last trip to Philly the diverse ecosystem of food carts and trucks around the University of Pennsylvania seems to have contracted some.  The number of carts has gone down and the diversity has diminished, and worse of all there is a proliferation of “New York City Halal Carts”.  Come on Philly get it together – why are there no carts selling hoagies laden with pork, broccoli rabe and provolone cheese?

Lots of greens

Lots of greens

Dumplings doused in ginger brown sauce

Dumplings doused in ginger brown sauce

Luckily The Real Le Anh Chinese Food Cart is still there selling great Chinese lunch plates (original review here).  Last time I tried the daily special Crab and Cheese Dumplings, but this time I went vegan and got the home made vegetable dumplings.  There is the choice of boiled or fried for the pork, chicken or vegetable dumplings that Le Anh sells. I went with fried which meant the dumplings were first par-boiled and then deep fried.  I was pretty much blown away by these dumplings, better even than the Crab and Cheese Dumplings.  They were filled with Chinese cabbage and greens, no flavored tofu or minced mushroom filler, just nutritious greens.  The dumplings were served doused in a ladle full of thick brown, ginger flavored sauce/gravy.  This is how the Crab and Cheese Dumplings were served too, so this appears to be the Le Anh standard serving style.  The vegetable filling was able to stand up to the ginger sauce and provide a slightly bitter retort to the sweet sauce.  Avoid the NYC wanna-be Halal rice and meat plate carts and go to The Real Le Anh Chinese Food Cart. 

Philly, whay are you importing NYC Halal Food Carts?

Philly, why are you importing NYC Halal Food Carts?

Posted in Chinese, Philadelphia, Vegan, Vegetarian | Leave a comment

Return to M Shanghai Bistro and Garden, Brooklyn NY

Spicy Wontons

Spicy Wontons

About a year ago I went to see a show in Williamsburg Brooklyn and stumbled upon M Shanghai Bistro and Garden.   Last time around I was pretty impressed with both the quality of the dumplings they were turning out and with the depth of their dumpling menu.  I recently caught another show in Williamsburg and returned to M Shanghai to try some more dumplings.  This time around I tried the Spicy Wontons which come as either pork or vegetable (vegan) wontons – I went with the vegetable wontons.  It is a little dark in M Shanghai but I think the filling was comporised of spinach and mushrooms.  The wontons were really good but the spicy sauce was disappointing.  Instead of a hot chili oil sauce, it was similar to the sauce you get on cold sesame noodles, probably a mix of sesame oil (or maybe tahini) and peanut butter, and had only the barest hint of spice.

The complete dumpling menu at M Shanghai is:

Steamed or Fried Pork Dumplings
Steamed or Fried Vegetable Dumplings
Steamed or Fried Seafood Dumplings
Crispy Fried Chive and Egg Dumplings
Steamed Juicy Pork Buns
Steamed Vegetable Buns
Shanghai Vegetarian Wonton Soup
Shanghai Pork Wonton Soup
Spicy Wontons
Chicken Shu-Mai
Pork Shu Mai
Vegetable Shu-Mai
Sticky Rice Shu-Mai

I like M Shanghai but the Spicy Wontons are not their best dumpling offering.  During this trip I also tried the Sautéed Pea Leaves with Fresh Garlic which was really good.

Posted in Vegan, Vegetarian, Wontons | Leave a comment

Return to Kung Fu Steamed Little Buns Ramen, New York, NY

Shanghai Shu Mai and Shanghai Pan-Fried Pork Buns

Shanghai Shu Mai and Shanghai Pan-Fried Pork Buns

Steamed Crab and Pork Soup Dumplings and Pan Fried Pork Dumplings

Steamed Crab and Pork Soup Dumplings and Pan Fried Pork Dumplings

Kung Fu Steamed Little Buns Ramen has probably got the best name in the dumpling making game.  I previously reviewed Kung Fu back in June 2014, but one and even two reviews are not enough to cover all of the available dumpling options.  This time I tried the sticky rice shao mai, the crab meat and pork soup dumplings, the pan fried pork dumplings, and a repeat try of the Shanghai pan fried pork buns.

The sticky rice shao mai are filled with seasoned gluttonous rice, shredded pork and chopped Chinese sausage, basically a Chinese version of Southern Dirty  Rice.  This is my favorite style of shao mai and Kung Fu does a excellent, home made, version of this dumpling.  The sticky rice filling was savory with little flecks of sweet and salty sausage mixed in.  The shao mai were big and burly, at least three bites per dumpling.

The soup in the crab and pork soup dumplings was like a creamy, long simmered, pork bone Tonkotsu Ramen broth – WITH CRAB ADDED – it was amazing.  Kung Fu puts a full Chinese soup spoon worth of soup into each dumpling and there was enough crab meat mixed into the pork filling that it seemed like I could taste the ocean in these dumplings.  The wrappers were also perfect, they were thin and supple but didn’t rip open and spill the soup when I picked them up.

Considering that both the soup dumplings and the Shanghai pan fried buns contain soup, juicy seems to be the theme of this post, and the pan fried pork dumplings were some of the juiciest Guo Tie I’ve tried.   Inside the crispy fried outer layer of the wrapper the dough was thicker and fluffier than a typical Japanese gyoza style pan fried dumpling and six of these will fill you up.  The pork filling was savory, salty, sweet and juicy, so juicy they were close to being soup dumplings, they were excellent.

Posted in Buns, Chinese, Pan Fried, Pork, Shanghai, Shumai, Soup Dumpling | Leave a comment

40,000th Page View

 
Yesterday Dumpling Hunter had its 40,000th page view.  I never thought the blog would last this long and see so many visitors. Thank you all for loving dumplings and for supporting my blog. 

– Dumpling Hunter

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