Mokja Korean Cuisine, New York City, NY

mokja-burger

Bibinbap Burger at Mokja

Mokja Korean Cuisine opened recently on the Upper West Side of Manhattan and is a spin-off of Mokja Korean Eatery in Astoria.  Mokja serves traditional Korean dishes and also some mash-up fusion dishes – for instance, the Bulgogi Nachos, which are tortilla chips topped with gochujang aioli, kimchi, beef bulgogi and melted sharp cheddar and the Bibimbap Burger which is a burger topped with bibimbap vegetables, a runny fried egg and bibimbap sauce on a brioche bun.  Mokja has a small main dining room that seats maybe 20 people and also has a party room available that seats 15 people.

Fried Pork Dumplings

Fried Pork Dumplings

The Dumplings:  Mokja serves homemade pork with vegetable dumplings that come either fried or steamed and in orders of four or nine pieces. I tried the fried dumplings which are deep fried cooked and are crispy and crunchy on the outside.  I liked these dumplings a lot; inside the wrapper the pork is densely packed into a tight meatball that is savory and juicy.  This is not a bland factory made frozen dumpling, the filling has a robust, well seasoned pork flavor.

The Dipping Sauce: Mandoo dipping sauces in Korea tend to be loaded with scallion slivers and sesame seeds, and often ginger and/or garlic too.  Sometimes the sauces are so dense with pieces they are like a slurry (see the sauce at Myeongdong Gyoza here) and this is the route Mokja has gone with adding scallion and sesame seeds to their sauce.  I like this approach because there was enough scallion to add aromatic and pepper notes and the sesame seeds added a hint of smokey flavor and crunch to the dumpling.  The sauce itself appeared to be a mix of soy, sesame and rice vinegar.  Mokja’s strong work with the dipping sauce really elevated their dumplings.

The Location:  Mokja is on Amsterdam Ave between 101st and 102nd streets which is the southern end of Manhattan’s Manhattan Valley neighborhood.   This might be the Northern most Korean restaurant in Manhattan.

 

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Fourth Anniversary of Dumpling Hunter

New_logo_smDumpling Hunter is celebrating the beginning of its fifth year in existence, having uploaded 245 posts and received over 48,000 page views.  The first post on 9/30/12 was a review of Nan Xiang Xiolong Mantou in Shanghai.  Dumplings have been eaten in countless cities and towns, in ten countries – USA, China, Korea, Italy, Netherlands, England, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, and Turks and Caicos – across four continents.

Top dumplings have been had at Yang’s Fried Dumplings in Shanghai, Myeongdong Gyoza in Seoul, Nishida Sho-Ten, Kung Fu Steamed Little Buns Ramen, and Xi’an Famous Foods in New York City, Shanghai Garden in Seattle and Leoung’s Legends Continue in London.   The most over rated dumplings were at Din Tai Fung and the worst were from Chopsticks on Turks and Caicos. A highlight was when Beyond Meat sent me coupons for free product after seeing my recipe for vegan beef dumplings.

Despite comments to the contrary I still maintain that Pasties, Samosa, Empadana and Piroshkies count as dumplings.

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Dumpling Trail in Richmond, BC,

The Richmond British Columbia tourism office has noticed that their city has a lot of fine dumpling establishments and have put together a Dumpling Trail for visitors to their city.

You can visit the Dumpling Trail page here and the site has good descriptions and pictures of many of the dumpling varieties available. It is not as comprehensive as the list on “Dumpling Around the World” here at Dumpling Hunter (see menu bar) but still worth a read.

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Max SoHa, New York City, NY

Back in 2001 Max SoHa, short for South of Harlem, was one of the first restaurants in the ongoing transformation of the food scene in the adjoining Morningside Heights and South Harlem. Like its older sister restaurant Max in the East Village, Max SoHa is a small, rustic, unpretentious, neighborhood Italian restaurant.  It has a small, modestly priced menu, a good wine list, some outdoor cafe seating and overall a friendly low key vibe.  This is a great restaurant for a casual mid-week dinner out. The main menu does not include any ravioli, but Max SoHa has a daily, homemade ravioli listed on the chalk board.

Eggplant and Ricotta Ravioli

Eggplant and Ricotta Ravioli

The Dumplings:  The night I was there the ravioli special was a ricotta and eggplant ravioli with red sauce.  I was hoping that the eggplant was grilled and would provide some smokey flavor to the ricotta cheese, but I couldn’t really taste the eggplant contributing to the filling.  So these ravioli were essentially just ricotta filled.  The ravioli were cooked absolutely perfectly al dente, some of the most expertly cooked pasta I have eaten out in a restaurant.  For my taste, the red sauce was a little too sweet.

The Location:  Max SoHa is on the corner of Amsterdam Ave and 123rd Street which is on the northern edge of Columbia University in the Morningside Heights neighborhood, just south of Harlem.

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Weird Ass Dumpling Videos

People have started to send me links to weird ass dumpling videos they find around the internet.


I have seen several examples of Rube-Goldberg contraptions to shoot foods through the air and 3-second speed cook them, and Myth Busters did a test of a system to cook shrimp. Here is the flying dumpling cooking system version of the video.


I got this GIF forwarded me as a dumpling eating video, but I think it is actually a guy speed eating Peking Duck.

9ifhkin-imgur


This last one is not weird ass, but is in fact a very important safety video on how to eat Xiao Long Bao without burning your face off or ruining your shirt.  See it here at Food & Wine’s web site.

 

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Wow Bao, Reagan National Airport, DC

WoW Bao Steamers

Wow Bao Steamers

Steamed Green Vegetable Dumpling

Steamed Green Vegetable Dumpling in its cardboard serving box

Its all about context, when I originally reviewed Wow Bao in Chicago I gave them a mediocre review, but I was positively psyched to see a Wow Bao at the American Airlines gates at Reagan National Airport. I travel a lot and, despite some improvements in recent years, the food served at U.S. airports is terrible.  This is especially true if you are vegan or vegetarian, it is a wasteland out there.  Why can’t the U.S. produce an airport like Inchon Airport in Korea?

Previously I tried the BBQ Pork Bao, the Edamame Bao and the Pork and Cabbage pot stickers, this time I tried the steamed Green Vegetable Dumplings.  These dumplings appeared to be filled with greens, peanuts, edamame and mushrooms and were objectively pretty good.  But given my rock bottom expectations for food that evening at the airport (I was expecting fried carbs covered in cheese) I was positively giddy to be eating steamed veggie dumplings. The wrappers for these dumplings contain egg and so are vegetarian, but not vegan.

You can get orders of 5 or 8 dumplings served in a Chinese restaurant cardboard box to-go container and the Wow Bao kiosk at Reagan Airport has a small counter you can eat at.

 

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Return to La Salle Dumpling Room, New York City, NY

I reviewed La Salle Dumpling Room a few months ago and raved about their pork and kimchee soup dumplings.  I have seen some negative blog posts and Yelp! reviews for this spot, but since I quite enjoyed my last visit to the Dumpling Room I decided to return and try some of their other varieties of dumplings.  Maybe my happy posts about this place will counteract some of the hater’s reviews out there.

Pan Fried Pork Post Stickers

Pan Fried Pork Dumplings

Photo Aug 25, 7 12 23 PM

Steamed White Fish Dumplings

The Dumplings:  For a place that calls itself a Dumpling Room they have a relatively modest selection of dumplings.  This time around I tried the fried pork dumplings and the steamed white fish dumplings.  The wrapper of the fired pork dumplings was folded over the meat and not pinched closed along the entire seam but rather the wrapper was just pressed together in the middle and the ends of the dumpling were left open.  The dumplings were panned fried to a crispy golden brown.  I liked these dumplings a lot and with their open ends they were reminiscent of cannoli stuffed with tasty savory pork.

The steamed white fish dumplings are filled with, of course, white fish and scallion, ginger and celery.  These were basically a solidly executed mild-tasting seafood dumpling.  I was expecting the celery would give the filling some crunch, but the celery was chopped very finely and didn’t contribute much texture.  These dumplings do serve as an excellent conveyance for the chef’s amazing dipping sauce.

The Dipping Sauce:  the wait staff are still refusing to give up the secret of the chef’s excellent dipping sauce.  The sauce is certainly soy based and probably flavored with vinegar and oil, but there is some secret ingredient or proportion of ingredients in there that takes it to the next level.

The Location: La Salle Dumpling Room is on the border between the Morningside Heights and Manhattanville neighborhoods, on Broadway a block and a half south of 125th street, on the corner of La Salle Street.  This area is fast becoming a destination for Asian food, with La Salle Dumpling Room, Jin Ramen (DH Review here) , Kissaten Jin and Chapati House all within a block of each other.

 

Posted in Fish, Gyoza, New York City, Pork | Leave a comment

Return to Ollie’s, New York City, NY

File Aug 20, 5 20 47 PM

Dumpling making station at Ollie’s

Ollie’s has been a fixture on the Upper Westside of Manhattan for 27 years, doing a huge business in dine-in, take-out and delivery of Americanized-Chinese food.  Over the last couple of years they have closed a couple of locations and then recently opened a new one on Broadway and 103rd Street.  At the new, Ollie’s To Go, there is an open kitchen visible from the street with a dumpling making station right up front, separated from the pedestrians by only a pane of glass.

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Soup dumplings in the steamer

The Dumplings:  Given how Americanized the food at Ollie’s is, I was pretty skeptical two years ago when I saw that the old 116th street location had added soup dumplings to their menu.  At that time the waitress told me they were serving frozen dumplings and my review of them was that they were pretty weak and that they were probably commercially sourced.  But recently I walked by the 103rd street location and saw a woman at the dumpling station churning out fresh soup dumplings that looked really legit, so I headed in and placed an order.

As I opened the steamer and a cloud of pork infused steam wafted out, the host rushed over and to make sure I knew how to eat the dumplings and wouldn’t burn my face off.  I assured him I was no newbie.  These soups dumplings were vastly better than the ones I tried two years ago.  The soup was deeply flavorful and unctuous and the meat ball was savory and porky – the sweetness that I criticized them for last time was not present in these dumplings.   The wrappers were good, they were supple but mostly strong enough to hold in the soup and meat, only one dumpling arrived in the steamer with a tear in the wrapper and I was able to lift all but that one out of the steamer without the soup spilling out.

Dumpling station at Ollie's

Soup dumpling

The Dipping Sauce:  Ollie’s serves the traditional black vinegar flavored Xiao Long Bao dipping sauce with fairly thick matchsticks of ginger floating in the sauce.   I don’t really like this style of dipping sauce and Ollie’s To Go presented a typical version of it, so as usual I did not enjoy it.

The Location:  Ollie’s new location is on Broadway at 103rd Street in the Manhattan Valley neighborhood just south of Columbia University.  It is on the same block as Sun Chan, one of Dumpling Hunter’s favorite spots.  Unfortunately Sun Chan has been closed for months due to gas main issues, anyone know what is going on there?

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Vinateria, New York City, NY

Over the past four years of Dumpling Hunter I have mainly focused on Asian and Eastern European dumplings, with a sideline in Pastys and Empanadas, and have almost ignored the ravioli (see here and here).  It is time to right this wrong and to start reviewing some ravioli.

Harlem’s Vinateria serves an Italian and Spanish-inspired seasonal menu and has a good wine list.  One of the focuses of the restaurant is to use as many organic and locally sourced ingredients as possible.   Vinateria has a sleek, stylish dining room, a really friendly, fun bar scene and an outdoor sidewalk cafe area. This is a good place for an after work drink and light dinner.

Photo Aug 03, 8 08 25 PM

Ravioli in Brodo

The Dumplings:  Vinateria has a changing seasonal menu so their ravioli may not always be available.  This summer they have been serving Ravioli in Brodo – a Ricotta ravioli in tomato water with heirloom tomatoes.  The ravioli had an superbly thin and delicate wrapper and were served floating in the light tomato water broth – this was a very light, fresh summer dinner.  Tomato water was huge in the 1990’s but somehow I missed it, but in my defense tomato water was being served in high end restaurants and I was a poor student in the 90’s.  Not knowing any better I was expecting the tomato water to mild tasting, but it actually packed a tomato flavor punch and was delicious.  The last piece to this dish was the heirloom cherry tomatoes which provided sweet bursts of flavor.

The Dipping Sauce:  I am still working out how to review ravioli, maybe the description of the sauce should come here.

The Location:  Vinateria is in South Harlem on Frederick  Douglas Boulevard at the corner of 119th street.  The Boulevard from 112th to 123rd is a lively restaurant row of bars and restaurants.

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Mr Robot’s Bo Hai Dumpling Town, New York City, NY

Mr. Robot - Bo Hai Dumpling Town

Mr. Robot – Bo Hai Dumpling Town

The USA TV show Mr. Robot has built a hardcore fan base that obsesses on Reddit about all the details embedded in the show.  The main character, Elliot Alderson, lives in the Two Bridges neighborhood of Manhattan above Bo Hai Dumpling Town.  Several fans have posted on Reddit about their pilgrimages to Bo Hai Dumplings Town and posted selfies of themselves infront of the store.

The Lo-Down wrote in an article about Mr. Robot “Here’s a footnote for the truly obsessed. Bo Hai Dumpling Town is nothing much to look at. If you walk inside, you’ll see a few women hunched over tables stuffing and rolling dumpling skins. But it’s a decent place to pick up a bag of frozen dumplings ($11 for 50). Varieties include: pork with leek, pork with Chinese cabbage, chicken with Chinese cabbage, vegetable and salted meat.”

Unfortunately Bo Hai Dumpling Town closed before I started binge watching Mr. Robot and I did not get a chance to try their dumplings.  Judging from the signage seen in the series, it closed at some point during the shooting of season one.  The four story tenement building that housed Eliot’s apartment and Bo Hai Dumpling Town sold in June 2014 for 3.3 million.

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